Where Did 6 Months Go? - Singapore

Before making it back to Sydney we had a brief stop-over in Singapore, just in case we hadn't quite yet forgotten how relaxing it had been in Goa :)
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Balls and skyscrapers...
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Big balls
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Not too much to say about 6 hours there, except as everyone knows - it is clean! Coming from India, which (surprisingly :P) isn't particularly clean, it seemed as though the streets were cleaner than many of the plates we had been eating off :)

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Can't escape that Bollywood

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We did manage to make a brief excursion outside the airport, even though we were still quite a bit out of it from having to get up at 3am. It was more than worth it though as real chinese food for the first time in 2 months was well over due, add to that a beer with ice in a humid evening and you have just about the perforct combination, why is South East Asia so good?

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It's hot, I love it here
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So that was it, back onto another flight, a couple of wines and baileys for Aimes and before we knew it we were back in Sydney and feeling as though we had never been gone!

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Big boys' toys

A Man Is Not A Camel - Goa

And so it was that we arrived at our last stop of the trip, and not a bad one at that!

While a man may not be a camel, after almost 2 dry months in India, Hobbes was starting to resemble a toucan... as such it was fortunate that we finally arrived in Goa where the draconian taxes on alcohol levied throughout the rest of India no longer inhibit it's excessive consumption :)

Surf's up!

Arriving from Cochin by train we managed to find the upside of the archaic nature of the Indian Rail Ticket booking system... as having been required to purchase a ticket for a station 900km beyond Goa in order to comply with their quotas, we subsequently discoved that the train made a brief stop at a station in northern Goa, much closer to Arambol than Magdaon, saving us two public bus trips!! Its all yin and yang!

Taking on the morning ripples

So after much deliberation, we decided on giving Arambol a shot as our first beach stop for Goa. Arambol has an eerily similar feel to Koh Phan Ngan in Thailand, the same level of development, the same type of travellers, the same feel of 'a whole lot of nothing going on'.... Think it took about 30 minutes after arrival to feel amazingly relaxed, definitely the most relaxed we’ve felt anywhere on the trip! Swimming in the ocean for the first time in almost a year no doubt helped a lot, even if there was a dire lack of waves…

As the crow sits

Somewhat surpringly the cows made a reappearance after almost disappearing in the south, partaking in their usual pastime of eating rubbish, though this time, out of the fishing boats and nets lining the beach… after which they'd leisurly wander along the beach, hassled heaps by the big groups of dogs, yet remaining really zen, not seeming to get too bothered by it…

Now why would you do that?

Driving a hard bargain

Definitely an interesting mix of people, lots of hippie types with their kids, doing their yoga on the beach while their kids sit waiting in their pram. Long term stayers in Arambol for the “season” (hence no thought of a discount for staying 5 days).

Really nice place to just wander up the 'main' street lined with the usual Indian (and Thai) tourist items, run down the beach to Mandrem in the south, or walk around the rocky headland to the north to a more peaceful beach backed by a idilic fresh water lagoon. As in Thailand, there are a multitude of eating an drinking options, with a beach bar or restaurant never being more than a short walk away, even when you have wandered away from the main part of town.

Arambol's beach

One of many

You can definitely feel the Portugese influence in Goa, if only for the Catholism - as in Cochin, all the fishing boats have names like “God’s Gift”, “St. Anthony” and “Jesus”, while white tombstones and Churches are scattered everywhere, looking particularly spectacular against the deep green backdrop of the palm trees.

Teach a man to fish and he'll drink beer for a lifetime

In addition to finally providing much needed cheap beer, Goa is also home to a few local varieties (King’s being the most notable) which are exceedingly preferable to Kingfisher, which seems to have a virtual monopoly elsewhere in India. However, unfortunately when it comes to the gin, the less said the better...

Despite hanging out to ride a motorbike since leaving Vietnam, our plans to tour the Goan countryside were dashed by a recent police initiative to establish new licencing requirements for the people renting bikes to foreigners. Seems all the renters had decided to boycott the new requirements in an effort to make the police abandon them... unfortunately for us this just meant no bikes (unless we wanted to pay the $100 fine).

Backseat buddies on the local bus

Not being able to get a bike meant that it was a long, long bus trip to get down to the Anjuna Markets which are on each Wednesday a few beaches south of Arambol. It took about 2 hours to cover the 30km trip down the coast by foot, local bus and autorickshaw. But it was more than worth it, as the Anjuna Market is absolutely massive, sprawled over a big field, and amongst the palms finging the beach, something like Glebe Markets x 1000! Heaps of stalls, lots of incenece, hammocks, chunky jewellery, and everything you’ve seen at tourist shops throughout India - but at prices which are 300% to 500% higher, as the vendors take advantage of a lot of tourists only visiting Goa.

Anjuna Market

Quite a different mix of people at the markets compared with Arambol, as people come from all over Goa, so lots of package tourists who obviously hadn’t been in India long (hence the high prices), mixed in with the usual ferals, aging hippies and lots of sunburnt poms… The stall-holders were also a varied bunch, the usual moustached men, hard bargaining women, the jewellery shops all run by Tibetans and a whole lot of old Westerners who obviously came for a holiday and never ended up going home…

Swimming or shopping?

Mobile market

Though Anjuna is definitely not as nice a beach as Arambol, much more spread out and not really much of a town to speak of, however we didn’t go to any of the mega-bars nearby which apparently make it worthwhile… anyways, our choice of beach was looking pretty good!

Elephantitis

The crowds obviously attract the usual annoyers and there were quite a few around the market, even by Indian standards. The most recent scam appears to be dudes coming up to you presumably to try and sell you medicine, trying to tell you there is some kind of insect/bug attached to your head, not that we ever let them finish their speil. Though seems to be a bit of a dangerous occupation as one of them was almost biffed when he tried out his scam on 'roid-boy'...

It's a hard life - sunset drinks at Cafe del Mar

We decided that Arambol was pretty relaxing, so we ended up hang out there for a little bit longer than planned, partially to overcome the hassles of travelling down to Anjuna…

We ran into Arambol's more interesting residents on our last day, a 'White Wizard' who wandered out of the trees backing the beach, his white coat covered with reflective bits, long white hair flying in the wind and wearing big pink sunglasses. His brain obviously wasn’t what it once was, we later found him dancing out he front of someone else's hut by himself… so very wasted!

Palolem sunset

From Arambol (the northern most of Goa's beaches) we decided to head down to Palolem (the southern most of the beaches). As usual our red-hot advice regarding transport turned out to be flawed, the train going most of the way down, only ended up going half the way, but you come to expect that… fortunately the pakora on bread, and chai made the wait at the train station (for 3 hours) not too painful…

During the long wait at the station we had our first 'small world' incident for a while, meeting a couple on the who also used to live in Warners Ave at Bondi Beach. In addition to sharing many Bondi stories, we were also able to share a cab with them from the train sation to Palolem which made life a whole lot easier!

Beach bar action

Considering Palolem is supposedly the most idillic of Goa's beaches, it was a lot busier than we had been expecting… having said that, it is quite beautiful, white sand, clear water and fringed by masses of palm trees which seem to be trying to push the numerous beach huts out of the way. Also adding to the appeal of Palolem was that fact that there were marginally better waves, you could even almost body surf them if you waited long enough…

Palolem's palm fringed beach

There is a bit more of a party atmosphere in Palolem than Arambol, lots of beach bars playing old Ministry of Sound mixes all arvo (it was all new to Hobbes though!) , although for some unknown reason mysteriously turning it off at sunset? Perhaps it is to allow people to enjoy the many food options, which equally mysteriously comprise more Thai food than anything else??

Even though much of the music stopped, decent sized fireworks were set off from the beach at random times throughout the night??

A little piece of paradise

The accommodation is a lot more basic than Arambol (despite the otherwise over-developed feel), simple huts made out of palm leaves and a few sticks, our hut felt like it could easily fall down if we walked around too heavily (mind you we were paying $5 a night). Apparently all the huts get taken down during the rainy season, not surprising considering that they look like they could barely last that long! Having said that it was a pretty comfortable place to stay, with a view of the beach and a fan, there wasn't too much more you needed?

Barring up

As in Arambol we spent a whole lot of time in Palolem doing very little, waking up, going for a walk, having something to eat, a swim, something to drink, a read of a book, another swim, another drink, something more to eat (you get the picture).
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There is a bit of a Euro-trash feel unfortunately, with many of the bars with distinctly euro-names (Casa de Sol, Café Del Mar), fat leather skinned women intent on getting ever darker, and lots of sunburnt backpackers playing beach volleyball a little too seriously...

Party palms

Beach entertainment

Just as we had a great time in Arambol, Palolem proved a perfect way to finish off the trip, a few G&Ts (for old time sake) and beers watching the sunsets, and taking the time to reflect on the distance we had covered over the past 6 months!

Hobbes' boat

So after all the relaxation it was time to head for home, saying goodbye to the beach and commencing our 5 day trip back to Sydney… To re-aquaint us with the more familiar theme of our trip, it was to be a lot of sitting on transport before we would make it home, starting with a early morning bus trip (make that two very crowded buses) to the regional centre of Madgaon, to catch our lonbgest train ride for the trip – 35 hours back up to Delhi…

The accomodation might be basic but the view is OK

Despite Aimes having a rather large Indian lady fall on top of her climbing down from the top bunk, and being sat next to a absolute know-it-all Canadian for most of the trip, we arrived back in Delhi. It was not long after this that were given a quick refresher course on how annoying and painful Delhi is (especially at midnight), as it took us several arguements, walking between different drivers and finally paying more money than was on the PRE-PAID receipt to get someone to drive us to a hotel. It really wasn't the niavity which made Delhi so hard the first time, it is just that it is home to some of THE most persistant, devious and deceitful touts in India if not the whole world!!!

One last shot of our big noggins

We had one full day in Delhi before taking our flight to Sydney, most of which was spent shopping for Bollywood DVDs and CDs (after spending every morning watching them over breakfast in Goa) and those last few souveneirs to make sure that our bags were well and truely full…

Coastal Goodness - Kerala

Even while flying down the highway at high speeds from Ernakulam to Alleppey you could feel how beautiful Kerala is, a perfect combination of coastal lagoons, beaches, surf and boats, palms and banana trees crammed in every spare space, seemingly trying to evict the few houses. What a difference a compass direction makes, as it seemed a world away from Tamil Nadu on the opposite coast. But it just what everyone we met kept on telling it would be (even the locals in Tamil Nadu were saying get over there as fast as possible) - beautiful!

Sunset on the backwaters

After arriving by train in Ernakulam (Cochin) we had headed down to Alleppey to take a boat cruise on the extensive network of canals which comprise the Keralan Backwaters. Arriving in town after surviving yet another high speed, cramped bus trip, we were confronted by what was becoming a frequent problem - two official government tourist offices adjacent to each other, and both claiming to be the REAL government office (while having significantly different prices?). At least our experience led us to ask around and not trust the 'we are the official office' line...

Hard work for some...our punting boatman

Despite the fact that heaps of tourists come to Alleppey for the backwater cruises, there aren't too many who stay there, most coming down for a day trip. Still, we managed to find a nice homestay for the night, sharing a house with a couple of old ladies who rented their spare room to a hostel across the road. Though not sure that they were particularly up with the ettiquette of their role as they told us not to eat with the manager and his family as it is too expensive, better to go into town - not sure that would have been part of the agreement.

Anyways had a bit of trouble finding somewhere worth eating in town, although we did find a place doing damn good ice-cream shakes with an entire tub of ice cream in each, just as well the long walk to the homestay made you feel justified having one! Also Alleppey has a distinct lack of toilet paper for sale, as we couldn't find anyone selling it even after asking at 10 shops (almost had to resort to the Indian hand clean)?

Solitaire

Anyways, the next day we were off on our boat trip (once the boat was readied that is), which turned out to be pretty luxurious by our standards! A big boat with 3 staff, bedroom, bathroom, kitchen and big open deck area at the front, all just for us! Though wasn't quite as impressive as many of the others around, many of which seem to take the 'house' bit of HOUSEboat a little literally as they very much resemble floating palaces.

Littlest chapel

Gourmand's delight - molee (Keralan fish curry)

Apparently there are some 400 or 500 houseboats operating out of Alleppey, and it felt like a majority of these must have passed us during the day, as we had opted for what was supposedly the more environmentally responsible option of taking the punted boat rather than motorboat option. With the constant stream of boats filing out of Alleppey it was sometimes difficult to tell where one boat finished and the next began, it really is big business down there. Though even with all the passing traffic we were very satisfied with our choice as it was definitely a lot more peaceful to gradually float down the river and really appreciate the beautiful scenery and the peace and quiet.

Working 9 to 5

In line with the higher standard of accomodation, the food was excellent and as always in copious quantities. Although it is a little hard to go wrong when you have chicken, chilli and coconut cream to work with! While stopped for lunch we received some impromptu entertainment from an old man who sang us a song and did a little jig before demanding a pen (reminiscent of the old dude who sings 'the old grey mare ain't what she used to be' on the Simpsons). After giving him his pen, he ran off along the bank and we could hear the song again further along being performed for another boat. We also had a visit from a local boy who wanted additions to his coin collection, which was impressive to say the least. Money from over 40 different countries including Iraq, Kazakstan, UAE, Mongolia etc, it was worth quite a bit, with quite a few Pounds and USD included. Unfortunately all we had for him was a different 1 yuan note to the older one already in his collection...

Time for reflection

While enjoying another awesome meal for dinner we had a 'how's the serenity' moment as the peacefulness of the sun setting behind the palms was interrupted by the sound of sustained gunshots. Obviously you can lead a man to water but you can't make him give up his 12 gauge? Though this stopped eventually and we were just left with the sounds of crickets, the light of fire flies and the wafting smells of our gourmet dinner.

Alleppey has a thriving Umbrella Shop District (??)

The backwaters are very much like the canals around Can Tho in southern Vietnam, the water a little brown, fringed by palm trees and full of boats of all shapes, sizes and states of disrepair... Though not as intensively shipped as in Vietnam, none of the massive rice barges or other commercial boats. Although of course there was a big presence of houseboats, with many more being constructed along the waters edge for much of the trip.

Even the management of the backwaters closely resemble those Hobbes was working with in Saigon - primarily prevention of salinity intrusion to improve rice yields, which has resulted in 2 to 3 crops rather than the traditional 1 (in addition to the associated negative environmental impacts).

Greeness

The only down side to our trip was the sleeping arrangements, as it was damn hot at night under the mosquito net with the window closed (those mega boats with numerous airconditioning unit weren't looking quite as stoopid anymore). Also, being on a boat, we had the usual furry friends to keep us company, these ones seeming pretty intent on eating the entire boat before sunrise. Maybe would have been better sleeping outside on the deck, Halong Bay style?

The fishing net obsession begins

It was a pretty quick trip back to Alleppey the next morning, from where it was straight into a waiting autorickshaw, then straight onto a bus. Once again our driver had a death wish, flying up the highway to Cochin, hitting all the bumps at high speed resulting in some backseat levitation. Fortunately we managed to (just) miss all the bicycle riders and pedestrians, most of whom were obviously oblivious to our drivers' manic tendancies... Arriving in Cochin, it was a couple more autorickshaw rides out to the train station and then ferry, then a crossing to Fort Cochin - making it 7 different means of motorised transport before we made it to our hotel (and all before midday!). A hard earned thirst needs a big cold iced coffee (this was India)...

Men of Cochin - March

The now familiar 'tropical malaise' is alive and well in Cochin, all the restaurants offer indifferent to slow service, perhaps the second meal will arrive within half an hour of the first... perhaps it wont... and when you go to pay you have to remind the staff what you ordered... annoying and relaxing at the same time - too much singing, not enough cooking!

Men of Cochin - June

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In direct contrast with Alleppey, Cochin is a very touristy affair, with the whole area of Fort Cochin bascially existing to lighten tourists wallets. Having said that, as with most overly touristed places it really is a nice spot, and if nothing else was good lead in to the ultra-tourist world of Goa! Somewhat like Pondicherry for the fact that the touristy area is amazingly peaceful, with big walled houses and churches, while the Indian part of town is the usual frenetic hectic place.

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Waiting, waiting, waiting...

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Also waiting for dinner

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One of the things you notice in the South is the influence of Christianity, there are heaps of churches, most with numerous quotes describing the fire and brimstone that awaits all of us sinners plastered across their walls. Also most of the boats, buses and autorickshaws are named after the drivers' favourite Saint.
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Something else unqiue to the South is the sight of most of the older men wear getting about in lungi's (the Indian equivalent to the kilt) many of them in quite a risque manner by Indian standards (quite a bit of leg showing)! Although things are a lot more laid back over on the west coast!

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More obsession

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Boulder weights on the fishing nets

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The highlight of Cochin is undoubtedly the row of old Chinese fishing nets which line the northern coast. The men who work the nets are extremely friendly (as well as being extremely buff) inviting you to climb all over the structures to get a good photo, even when they are hauling in their catch they tell you to keep on snapping, even though you seem to be in their way! The raising and lowering is pretty busy with counter weights of rocks and lumps of concrete falling, as men run in all directions performing their tasks.

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Film stars

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Wall paper of our guesthouse room - pick a flamingo and paint it your favourite colour

It is pretty lively all along the shoreline with boats returning with their catch, impromptu markets springing up to auction of this catch and lots of cats, dogs and crows circling around hoping for someone to drop their guard for a moment... Just behind the beach are a number of fish mongers where you can pick up some pretty cheap fresh fish, and unsurprisingly there are a number of kitchens nearby who will gladly cook it up for you! There was a quite extensive selection of fish, tuna, mackrel, flathead, massive prawns, somewhat surprising considering the poor state the local fishery must surely be in now?

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Well, I didn't want to go in anyway!

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Men of Cochin - October

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One final addition to the 'issues of the south', why are there so few cows down here compared with the north? We hardly sighted one from the time we reached Mumbai, and even there it was only the one looking pretty unhappy amongst the traffic as her owner demanded payment for people to feed it... perhaps not enough Hindus?

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I hope it's not raining then...

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While in Cochin we also took time to take advantage of the uber-tourism and do a bit of shopping for that one nice thing to take home with us. However, after a while we gave up, not because we couldn't find anything we liked, but because of the crap the vendors were spinning about the high quality of the piecces and the insanely inflated prices they kept of insisting were such a 'good price for you'. Guess you've got tho expect that in tourist-ville, but what what some of them wanted was just silly (and we are used to having to bargain).

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Men of Cochin - December

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So that was it for Kerala, next and almost last stop of the trip - Goa...

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One more fishing net photo for old times sake